Seb’On

There’s a French bistro on Rue d’Orsel in Montmartre: it’s called Seb’on.

The decor is simple; the tables are small and French-style, with dark wood dominating the space, and there’s a solid wood counter near the kitchen that looks handmade.

There is a chef standing behind a window that looks out from the dining room into the kitchen, where you can see copper pots hanging. His name is Sebastien Heloin.

There’s also a friendly and affable host who manages the dining room, warming it up with his smile and jazz music.

The dishes are refined, aromatic, and seasonal.

It was November, a cold wind was blowing outside, and Sébastien had just what was needed to warm hearts and stomachs.

Let’s start with the ravioli, filled with buttery cauliflower, tarama, and shrimp, and the veal tartare with Parmesan cream. The flavors are well-rounded and smooth on the palate, pairing perfectly with the 2022 Santenay Pinot Noir.

Next up is the slow-cooked veal loin, served with a delicious duxelle and risotto, almost echoing the structure of the classic Milanese ossobuco recipe with risotto and gremolada.

Finally, salt cod with spaetzle from the Pasticana region, glasswort, and a foam made from fish sauce and white wine.

I don’t know if it was because of the cold wind blowing outside, because I was hungry, or because I was leaving Paris in a few hours, but stepping into Seb’on can be considered quite a cure-all.